“The population of Antalya was 600,000 nine or ten years ago. Today it’s 3 million,” our certified tour guide Ihsan told us on a recent trip to southern Turkey. I blinked – not because I was being blinded by the sun, but because of the sheer scale of that growth. A five-fold increase in just a decade.
On our return home, I did what all good travel journalists do and Googled it – and that’s when I also discovered Antalya currently ranks sixth place globally for the highest number of international arrivals, ahead of cities such as Dubai and Paris.
I suppose it should come as no surprise. Antalya’s got the sea, the sun, the spellbinding mix of old and new — and, as we found, a pace of life that suits both wanderers and the wildly active.
Antalya’s Old Town
Our Antalya experience had begun with a journey back in time. Ihsan was introducing us to the city’s Old Town — Kaleiçi — which translates literally to mean ‘inside the castle’. It’s the heart and soul of old Antalya, where cobbled lanes meander past Ottoman houses and Bougainvillaea spills over rooftops, all within the historical city’s defensive walls.
We started with the Monument to Mustafa Kemal Atatürk, the father of modern Turkey, standing against a skyline of minarets and red roofs before taking in a sweeping view over the ancient city and its marina. Down below, fishing boats bobbed gently as they have for centuries, and the sea shimmered in the kind of blue that painters dream of but rarely match.
From there, we took in the Yivliminare Mosque which has an interesting history. Thought to have been converted from a pre-existing Byzantine church but destroyed in the fourteenth century, the prayer hall was reconstructed in 1373 and is notable for its six domes, making it one of the oldest surviving examples of a multi-domed mosque in Anatolia.
Our tour also took us to the Antalya Ethnographic Museum, housed in two restored Ottoman-era mansions. It showcases daily life and offers insights into Antalya’s traditional culture, particularly during the Ottoman period.
Perhaps most striking architecturally was the Shehzade Korkut Mosque a little further on; it originated as a Roman temple and was later converted into a Byzantine church before becoming a mosque. Characteristics from each era can still be seen – reminders that previous cultures have not been erased, but just re-written.
And let’s not forget Hadrian’s Gate, built to honour the Roman Emperor’s ancient Antalya in 130 AD. Built mostly of white marble, it stands as a powerful reminder of Antalya’s rich Roman past, even though it commemorates only a fleeting visit.
This triumphal triple-arched gate, once part of the city walls, now displays the worn stone beneath – testament to the passage of countless ancient carts.
Beyond the Clock Tower, we stopped at the statue of King Attalus II, who founded Antalya as Attaleia in the 2nd century BC. Here, we had free time to wander the markets and cafés, and enjoy perusing the wares of spice sellers, a sensory final note before re-emerging into modern Antalya.
Corendon Playa Kemer Hotel
We stayed at Corendon Playa Kemer Hotel, an all-inclusive five-star resort about 40 minutes’ drive south along the coast from Antalya.
Our Standard Sea View Room was modern, airy and spacious, with a small balcony overlooking the hotel pool and beach, and the Gulf of Antalya beyond.
There’s a mini-bar, replenished daily, that you can help yourself to and, to greet our arrival, there was a small bottle of wine, some snacks and fresh fruit.
For food at the hotel, you’re spoiled. There’s the main dining area – Zephyrantes – serving a buffet at breakfast, lunch and dinner, plus a food court open outside regular hours — ideal for late arrivals like ours, where the staff are sometimes aided by a robot waiter. The variety at Zephyrantes was so extensive, it could please everyone — from adventurous foodies to the pickiest of eaters.
There’s also a separate à la carte restaurant – Bona Fides – beyond the food court, for a more intimate dining experience.
We dined here twice, and the second visit was especially memorable — a delightful, fish-themed evening featuring meze — a cherished staple of Turkish cuisine and social dining, ideal for families looking to enjoy quality time together.
In addition to the extensive food offering, facilities include various bars, indoor and outdoor pools, a spa (see our Turkish bath experience below), a gym, and watersports facilities during the main season.
We even had use of our own cabanas overlooking the beach, complete with butler service and a well-stocked fridge, plus there’s even a small amphitheatre tucked away at one end of the complex that hosts a varied events programme.
Although the hotel has its own entertainment, there are a variety of music and cultural events that can also be enjoyed in Antalya too. Next month alone, for example, the city will host the Antalya Music Festival, Antalya Akra Jazz Festival and Antalya Fashion Week, whilst later in the year the Kaleiçi Old Town Festival aims to preserve and develop the city’s cultural and historical heritage.
Runtalya
The timing of our trip coincided with Runtalya — the city’s flagship running event. Now in its 20th year, it has developed quite a following, both in Turkey and internationally.
The event typically hosts around 10,000 runners annually, from more than 50 countries around the world. A wall of names close to the start line showed this year’s participants taking part in all events from the 5K fun run through to the full marathon.
Our youngest son Tom and I took on the half marathon whilst my wife Becky and our older son James – and our genuine hope of a podium place – had registered for the 10K. Unfortunately, James had to withdraw due to an ongoing injury, but his younger brother knocked over 10 minutes off his half marathon PB, to finish in 1h28m, and land 50th place out of more than 900 runners. I trailed happily behind, finishing in just under two hours (16th out of 57 finishers in my age category), whilst Becky completed her 10K in under the hour mark.
It was a well-choreographed event, with plenty of aid stations along the route, not to mention plenty of support, a communal atmosphere, with entertainment along the way to distract from the aches and pains we were feeling en route.
If, like me, you enjoy combining sporting events with your travels, you may be interested to learn that the X-WATERS Antalya Open Water Swimming Race and Corendon Tahtalı Run to Sky both take place in the region next month.
Everything you need to plan your trip in 2024
Corendon Tennis Club Kemer
The morning after Runtalaya, we headed to Corendon Tennis Club Kemer, just a few minutes drive from the Corendon Playa Kemer Hotel. None of us are what you’d call tennis players, but we didn’t let that – or our achy legs – stop us.
Catering for all abilities, the club is home to 14 clay courts, surrounded by hills and green forests of the Taurus Mountains.
Here we were warmly welcomed with rackets, balls and the patient optimism of two friendly coaches. We started with coordination drills, learned to strike the ball without sending it wildly out of the court, and finished with a fun game that saw Team Corendon take on Team Asics.
They might have fared better than us at the previous day’s running event – one of them earned a very impressive second place in the men’s half marathon – but I’m pleased to report that we beat them at tennis!
The club also offers spacious and comfortable spectator seating, state-of-the-art floodlights for evening tennis, an irrigation system to keep the clay moist, and the on-site Corendon Club Café for food and refreshments.
Turkish bath experience
Back at the spa at Corendon Playa Kemer Hotel, we ended our trip with a local ritual: a Turkish bath – the perfect antidote to our recent physical exertions.
First came a gentle poaching in the sauna, before we were called to the hammam. With us lying on the heated stone slabs, our therapists worked up clouds of bubbles that were seemingly the size of small sheep. We were lathered from head to toe in soft foam before being taken to a treatment room for the main massage.
From there, we headed for the relaxation lounge, where a cooling face mask was delicately applied, and the experience culminated with us sipping on a glass of Turkish tea.
The treatment felt both indulgent and cleansing. It was also great for loosening off my legs after the half marathon – I’m normally feeling pretty stiff after longer runs nowadays but strangely I wasn’t so bad this time around, and I’m sure that’s thanks – at least, in part – to our Turkish bath experience.
Corendon Airlines
We flew Premium with Corendon Airlines, a Turkish-registered operation that might not spark instant recognition for UK or US travellers — yet. But, like Runtalya, Corendon is celebrating its 20th anniversary and is quickly gaining altitude.
We flew from Manchester to Antalya aboard a Boeing 737-800, with front-row seats affording us a little more leg room than the already reasonable 30-32 inch pitch offered by most seats on the plane, making the four-hour hop that little bit more comfortable.
Boarding was smooth and I even managed to piggy-back on a youngster’s request to see the cockpit prior to take-off, to take a quick shot of my own.
Although we travelled light — hand luggage only (one 8kg cabin bag and one 3kg underseat bag each) — our Premium ticket entitled us to two additional 20kg hold bags per person. So, whilst we could have brought the kitchen sink, we settled for the essentials – and our running gear, of course – to facilitate quicker passage through the airports.
Corendon transports approximately 6 million passengers annually with a fleet that’s mostly comprised of Boeing 737-800 and Boeing 737-800 Max model aircraft, providing direct flights to an extensive network of 165 airports across 65 countries. In the UK, flights to Antalya are available from London Gatwick, Manchester, Birmingham, Bristol and Newcastle-upon-Tyne. UK travellers can also fly directly to other Turkish destinations, including Dalaman, Izmir and Istanbul.
Disclosure: Our trip was sponsored by Corendon Airlines.
Paul Johnson
Paul Johnson is Editor of A Luxury Travel Blog and has worked in the travel industry for more than 30 years. He is Winner of the Innovations in Travel ‘Best Travel Influencer’ Award from WIRED magazine. In addition to other awards, the blog has also been voted “one of the world’s best travel blogs” and “best for luxury” by The Telegraph.
Did you enjoy this article?
Receive similar content direct to your inbox.
Please enable JavaScript in your browser to submit the form
